My work has taken me to different cities over the course of the past year-Jaipur, Lucknow, Chandigarh and Hyderabad. In each of these places I came across a distinct culture that made the city what it was and in each of these places I longed to get back to Delhi within a day.
My latest tour was to the state of Gujarat; more specifically the city of Ahmedabad. Ahmedabad was a pleasant surprise. From the moment I stepped off the plane I was engulfed in a feeling of bonhomie and goodwill. Travelling to my hotel in the taxi, with the driver pointing out the various landmarks, I felt as though I were in a small scale version of Delhi. From the shops to the hoardings, everything had a sense of familiarity, albeit with Gujju subtitles!!
Over the years one has heard of the way in which Gujarat has risen to become a prosperous state. The wide roads, cleanliness of the city and friendly nature of the residents are a testament to this fact. While the Gujaratis are known to be extremely moneyed their tastes are far subtler and toned down than the average Delhite. So you will still get to see a Mercedes and a Range Rover but minus the blue disco lights and blaring music!
After work I went exploring and landed up at the Law Garden market which is a daily occurance in the evenings. Here you get a mind boggling range of traditional Gujarati clothes-in all sizes. I found myself totally at ease with bargaining (something I hesitate to do even in Delhi) and picked up some really cute stuff. Roaming around, I soaked up the sights and sounds that are peculiar to every city in India. During a school visit the principal told me that Ahmedabad is an extremely safe city for women. Walking around after sunset I sensed the truth in her words. Living in Delhi I have gotten used to being checked out by the paanwala to the driver to just about everyone. If you’re a woman, irrespective of how you are dressed, you are fair game to be ogled at. Ahmedabad proved to be a refreshing change. I could feel myself relaxing as I relaised that no one was really bothered about where I was going or what I was wearing. It felt good to lay down my guard briefly.
One of my fondest memories will be of the auto driver who dropped me to the airport the next day. While driving he kept getting a call on his mobile. When he finally answered, it was to exasperatedly explain that he was with a customer and would be late. Catching my eye he sheepishly explained that he was newly married and usually reached home by 4pm daily. Since he was late his wife was calling to find out when he would reach. He also said that she would call at least thrice more by the time we reached our destination. The third time the call came he asked me if I could speak to her and assure her that he was indeed dropping me to the airport. I was most amused and touched to be given a glimpse into his simple life. I spoke to his wife and reassured her that her husband was not up to mischief and was indeed working. She calmed down and said “main unko bahut miss karti hoon jab who time se ghar nahi aate!!”
Whenever I look back on my tip, it shall be with fondness at the ease which Ahmedabad put me at. The city boasts of an exciting duality of being cosmopolitan while retaining its traditional flavour. For the first time I didn’t find myself longing to get back to Delhi; Ahmedabad was indeed a wonderful surprise.
